/countries/show/turkey/2.rss en-us In the far northwest Turkish province of Edirne, it’s over 40 degrees at the height of summer, leaving competitors of the Kirkpinar Oil Wrestling Festival, as well as the crowd, sobered by the heat. The ancient Ottoman drums beat slowly at first, and the sound mimics the heart rhythms of the two remaining wrestlers (Pehlivans) who are leaning brow to brow in a defiant arch. They are dripping in olive oil; naked save for a pair of water buffalo leather pants (kispet). On the spacious grassy arena, apply named “Field of the Brave,” the Kirkpinar Oil wrestlers occupy a small patch under the forgiving shade of an enormous Turkish flag. They begin, tactfully and swiftly, reaching for their opponents undergarments. Then, all at once, one wrestler is thrown onto his back, the other becomes a national hero, and the roar of 650 years of tradition fills the stadium. Kirkpinar means “Forty Springs,” and draws its name from an old Ottoman tale of two brothers. Among 40 warriors sent to capture Rumelia in the 14th Century, one day the brothers began to wrestle each other between victories. After two days, neither brother could be defeated, and they died of exhaustion and were buried at the site under a fig tree. Years later, several great springs appeared there, and thus sprouted the tradition of Kirkpinar Oil Wrestling. With its deep roots in the proud history and traditions of Turkey, Kirkpinar has been placed on the UNESCO Intangible Heritage of Humanity list. The three-day Kirkpinar Oil Wrestling Festival continues to this day as the oldest wrestling contest in the world. But thankfully it now has an enforced time limit of 40 minutes. Each Kirkpinar Oil Wrestling match begins with a ritual of greasing the wrestlers, followed by exaggerated slow-motion marching, and stooped prayer-like prostrations. Whilst the oil-groping wrestlers can initially be awkward for new crowd members, they will soon get over this, and the sudden conclusion to the match comes with the defeated wrestler belly up. The prized 14-carat “Golden Belt” is gifted to champions. With two wins already under his Kisbet, reigning champion Mehmet Yesil was knocked out in 2011. The crowning of his successor would have likely roused spirits from the original Ottoman legend. Hailing from Turkey’s southern reaches of Antalya, Ali Gurbuz only rose to glory after enduring a finale which drew deep into overtime. Mr Gurbuz was thrown onto the shoulders of an army of fellow warriors. From the stadium and beyond, you could hear his moment of victory as the 40-piece Ottoman band drummed in exhilaration. Wed, 18 Jan 2012 13:44:07 +0000 http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/kirkpinar-oil-wrestling-festival http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/kirkpinar-oil-wrestling-festival The beautiful Kursunlu Waterfalls in the Kursunlu National Park of Turkey is commonly known as the Kursunlu Selalasi Tabiat Park within the country. Located in the Antalya region, Kursunlu National Park is spread over 33 hectares of land, and there are half a dozen bodies of water in the area that are connected by the Kursunlu Waterfalls, which is itself a tributary of the Aksu River, and is surrounded by a pine forest. Kursunlu Waterfalls is the most exquisite beauty spot in Turkey. The best time to visit the Kursunlu Waterfalls is during the Mediterranean summer, more notably, April and May. Daily visits are arranged to Kursunlu National Park, and there is vast countryside around the waterfalls that can serve as a wonderful picnic area. There are also some local food vendors who sell wonderful refreshments. The Nature Park is approximately 50 miles from the Antalya region, and you’ll need to take a coal taxi to get here. There are several species to explore in this park, including the eastern Plane Tree, Carob, Laurel, Wild Olive, Fig, and Oleander. The flora and fauna is very diverse, and you can spot wild boars, foxes, rabbits, tortoises and snakes. Kursunlu National Park is a smaller area compared to other natural preserves in the Antalya region. You can smell the pine forest, and even in peak summers you can get cool air. There are places to fish or just relax in the meadows. Kursunlu Waterfalls creates quite a few natural lakes, and in them you will find trout and other fish. All the streams that originate from the river seem to culminate at a single point, and while you are approaching the Kursunlu Waterfalls, you can hear the sound of this. While visiting the Kursunlu Waterfalls, there are some things you need to be careful of. Keep your travel documents with you at all times, and carry rainproof clothes as well as summer clothes. Keeping some insect repellant handy is also a good idea. It is quite a trek to the waterfalls from the point where you get off. Be prepared to walk and carry water because once you enter the forested area, there is no source for drinking water. Littering is prohibited within the forest area, so you will need to keep plastic usage minimal or be prepared to carry it. This includes soft drinks and other snacks. Wed, 21 Dec 2011 14:20:54 +0000 http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/kursunlu-waterfalls http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/kursunlu-waterfalls Every culture and race has their own special form of entertainment passed down over the years. The Thais have cockfights, the Spanish have bull fights, and the Turkish have their camels. Turkey Camel wrestling is very popular, but as time musters forward, it is becoming more and more restricted. When you visit Turkey during the winter months, you will find elaborately dressed camels parading around the market areas welcoming the respect of all they cross. These wreslting camels are fully grown bulls that are fed extra to build muscle. They are trained from calves, and exercised regularly. One of the best places to visit in Turkey to watch this peculiar spectacle is the Aegean Coast. When it comes to the Camel Wrestling Festival, you might wonder how and why these camels do what they do. Thankfully it's not a blood sport, but more of a comical event. It is the camel’s inherent nature to wrestle and knock out their opponents during the mating season. They apparently display this nature in the herd so that they can mate. Camels have to show heroism qualities to mate in order to impress the females, so typically in the race a bunch of bulls are paraded, and a cow on heat is let in to give them the enthusiasm they need. The bulls obviously get excited, and start butting each other at the start of the race. It is sometimes the case that a bull starts off racing towards the crowd, and so the event becomes all the more exciting and an adrenalin rush for the viewers. Thankfully, the rate of accidents is pretty low, given the extremity of the sport. Unfortunately, the Turkey Camel Wrestling Festival is becoming unpopular because of the funds involved in maintaining these camels. Only the richest in Turkey who have the money to fund the maintenance of the camels wage this sport. Although camel wrestling is believed to have begun in Turkey more than 2,000 years ago, arranged by nomads, most of the camels that are now used for the Camel Wrestling Festival are not bred in Turkey, but rather in Iran or Afghanistan. The wrestling of camels for entertainment has often spilled over into an all-out fundraising affair by Turkish authorities, and it’s noted that the Turkish National Aviation League once used the camel wrestling events to raise funds for planes. This was discontinued soon afterwards. Turkey is not the only country with camels, and so the practice has been organized in other countries too. During a 1961 visit by Queen Elizabeth II to Lahore in India, camel wrestling was removed from the program at the horse and cattle show because it was deemed to be inappropriate for her to watch. Thu, 29 Sep 2011 00:05:14 +0000 http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/camel-wrestling-turkey http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/camel-wrestling-turkey Turkey has arguably got the best bus system in the world. But sometimes, walking is even better, especially in this massive country that is home to some of the oldest hiking trails in the world. One such trail is the Lycian Way: an iconic 509-km footpath that was established roughly 2,500 years ago. This waymarked trail was named by the Sunday Times as one of the world's top 10 best walks. The Lycian Way trail is perfect for stretching out your legs and getting your heart pumping after a long bus ride. The Lycian Way trail stretches between Fethiye and Antalya, and weaves its way from the Mediterranean coastline to the inland cedar forest that houses the ruins of ancient Lycian cities. Camping in Kabak Valley will give you the opportunity to explore a small section of the fabled footpath, lured towards the shade of the colossal Taurus Mountains. In 1999, the Lycian Way trail was waymarked with red and white lines by two passionate trekkers: Kate Clow and Terry RIchardson. They are now unofficial Lycian Way experts who have published numerous maps and guidebooks of the ancient route. The “Way,” is graded medium to hard, being mainly composed of limestone and stony underfoot, and takes you past the famous beach at Patara, up a 2388m climb to the summit of Mount Olympos, and to the church of the Angel Gabriel from which to gaze down over Myra. A day-long trek along the narrow path, worn down by thousands of footprints over centuries, will bring you to some tiny villages. You’ll be exhausted by the trek and the heat, but make to wander into town and see the shepherds alongside their grazing goats while robust women draw water from a well. The pastoral lifestyle and landscape are a welcome respite from the fast-paced, high-tech and noisy world most of us call home. With the exception of the last leg of the trip closer to Fethiye, you can easily find accommodation and food in the friendly villages along the “Way.” For the intrepid trekker intent on doing the whole route, give yourself up to one month for this adventure. If you have less time, there are stunning sections that you can hike in only two weeks, or two days, and they range from moderate, strenuous, and difficult. The more moderate trails are nearest to Fethiye. Butterfly Valley and Patara are among some of the most popular trails. The Lycian Way trail is perfect for more adventurous trekkers who wish to have a rough and ready experience that is closer to nature. This obviously means carrying your own shelter, food and supplies, which will mean a much stronger degree of attention to preparation before you set out. Wed, 10 Aug 2011 01:05:58 +0000 http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/hike-lycian-way http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/hike-lycian-way Stepping inside Istanbul's Sultanahmet Camii—commonly known as the Blue Mosque—is a unique experience. It is immediately apparent that this breathtaking building not only stores memories from centuries of Turkish history, but as an active mosque, the Blue Mosque remains central to Turkey’s ongoing story. Built in the early 17th Century AD during the reign of Ahmed I, The Blue Mosque faces Hagia Sophia and the Hippodrome, alluding to its important historical role in the city. Sections of the Sultan Ahmed Mosque were built on parts of the foundation of the Great Palace, the royal residence of Byzantine Emperors from (303 BC–1081 AD), when Istanbul was known as Constantinople. The architecture is beyond grand, and once you have entered the Sultanahmet mosque through the rear entrance reserved for tourists, and respectfully removed your shoes and covered your head with a scarf (women), it is truly a humbling experience. The immense amount of labour put into the Blue Mosque, with its lined interior of over 20, 000 handmade ceramic tiles, is a testament to the immense reverence for God. It is also proof of the unique artists’ talents that Turkey is known for, especially Darian tiles, traditional Turkish tulip designs done primarily in blue, hence the common name: the Blue Mosque. As the Sultan Ahmed Mosque is not a museum, there are few pictures and timeline maps to read or digest; instead, try kneeling or respectfully sitting and absorbing the events taking place all around you, every moment, to truly get a sense of the place. Notice the divided prayer room for women, the numerous lights illuminating the prayer area, the marble mihrab pointing the way to Mecca, a solitary figure illuminated in the arch of a giant window absorbed in prayer, the many loud-voiced tourists snapping pictures, and even some irritated worshippers. Having tourists in the Sultan Ahmed Mosque remains a loaded and contentious issue. These are the layers of past and present, secular and religious, historic and social that layers your own experience of the place. Today, Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque stand in stark contrast. The Hagia Sophia is now a museum mapping out its past as an Orthodox patriarchal basilica turned mosque; and the Blue Mosque is a vibrant place of worship that is still very much a part of the current religious dialogue taking place in Turkey, and the world. In 2006, Pope Benedict XVI visited the Blue Mosque, which was only the second papal visit to any mosque ever. Alongside Emrullah Hatipoğlu, the Blue Mosque's Imam, they performed silent prayer together facing Mecca. Pope Benedict went on to deliver a speech saying: “May all believers identify themselves with the one God, and bear witness to true brotherhood. [Turkey] will be a bridge of friendship and collaboration between East and West." The Pope’s speech marked a monumental symbolic gesture between two of the three principal monotheistic religions in the world, and added yet another historical event to the continuing tome of Turkish history that is the Blue Mosque. Wed, 01 Jun 2011 01:46:54 +0000 http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/blue-mosque http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/blue-mosque Some of the greatest moments of a trip are not the ones that you plan, but those unexpected experiences that arise from keeping an open mind and a relatively loose itinerary. The ancient ruins of Ephesus are one such experience. The history of Ephesus is beyond impressive—it’s a literal palimpsest of human history, and evidence of human presence dates as far back as 6,000 years to the Neolithic age. Ephesus continued to grow and prosper until its decline in the Turkish area in the 15th Century. As the largest and best-preserved classical city ruins of the Eastern Mediterranean, Ephesus gets tons of tourist traffic; and given that the farthest entrance to the ancient city of Ephesus is situated approximately 5km outside of the nearest “living” town of Selcuk, anyone wishing to visit the ruins of Ephesus usually takes a tour bus or a cab ride. Once I arrived at the NZ House Hostel, a line of bikes in the inner courtyard were there for guests to use free of charge, and come with a little map to navigate a morning trip to the Ephesus ruins. Arriving at the ruins as the perfect first full light of the morning sun hit the theatre, is stunning. The combination of the view and the ride takes your breath away. As the tourist buses slowly begin to arrive in the parking lot, you will have already had an intimate experience with the land that surrounds the ancient city of Ephesus. With its impressive longevity, the ancient city of Ephesus holds claim to some incredible titles. It was the second-largest city in the Roman Empire for many years (also the second largest in the world at that time), and was made famous for its very close proximity to the Temple of Artemis: one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. Ephesus is also thought to be the city where the Book of John was written. Biking to the farthest parking lot, usually used by tours as the exit from the ruins, is to travel back in time, and “backwards’ through the city. After marvelling at the exquisite Library of Celsus, connected to the Grand Theatre that was large enough to house a whopping crowd of 25,000 excited Romans, it’s lovely to rest your legs on a winding downhill road. A tree-lined path shades the way for a great midday bike back into Selcuk, leaving you perfectly famished for fish, grilled eggplant, baked potatoes, and a cheers to bike touring Ephesus with a bottle of Efes: Turkey's national beer. Fri, 27 May 2011 03:52:20 +0000 http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/epheusus http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/epheusus Visiting the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul is at the top of the list on most tourist itineraries, coming in a close second maybe only to Hagia Sophia. But while visiting the Turkish capital, you might receive mixed reviews of the legendary Grand Bazaar of Istanbul. Some Turks describe it as being as close to a real Turkish market as McDonald's is to fine dining. But throughout much raving or regretting of this experience, you just have to see this spectacular merchant mini-city with your own eyes. The Grand Bazaar (or “Kapalı Çarşı” in Turkish), means “covered bazaar". It has humble beginnings as a small masonry market enclosure called a “bedesten,” built in 1455 during the reign of Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror. Located in the heart of the old city, Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar slowly grew as neighbouring shopkeepers attached their shops to the growing covered market: a brilliant idea to secure the market stall and facilitate shopping in any weather, year-round. Turkey’s Grand Bazaar was then further enlarged during the time of Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent in the early 16th Century, and then was repaired in 1894 after a major earthquake shook the city. Today, the Grand Bazaar is one of the largest covered markets in the world, sprawling over 58 covered streets, and boasting over 4,000 shops, two mosques, two hamams, four fountains, and anywhere from one quarter to half a million visitors, daily. Start the day off right, with baklava and kave in the spice market (an adjoining open-air market to the sprawling Grand Bazaar). With a good sugar rush, you can hit the streets and wind your way through board-game alley and bridal boutique heaven. There are so many other markets connecting all around the main Bazaar that even finding one of the Grand Bazaar's 22 front doors, let alone not getting lost inside, can be an adventure. It is quite easy to find a Grand Bazaar map to help you through the maze; but on the other hand, ditching the map (after a quick peruse) can be much more amusing! Once inside, the vaulted arch of the ceiling, in clean white and red tiles, gives it magnificence and a lovely sound. It's a visual feast, with soaps and beads, spices and glass, rolls of fabrics, tons of brass, rugs, and loads of cheap knock-off brand items. It is very similar to most other bazaars in terms of the specific contents; and not just the size. Beyond the shiny wares, there is a hub of trade, of communication between companies and countries; and the Grand Bazaar is still a force in the Turkish economy for import/export business. Part of the attractive mystique of the Grand Bazaar is the idea of the Grand Bazaar itself. It’s not necessarily what's in it, but what it is. Wed, 18 May 2011 23:43:40 +0000 http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/grand-bazaar-istanbul http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/grand-bazaar-istanbul Even the most frugal of travellers usually end up with some sort of souvenir in their backpacks when they return home. Whether it’s a ticket stub from a music festival, or a hand-made piece of jewellery, chances are you'll come home with a treasure that encapsulates a unique travel experience. Looking for a particular souvenir can also become an adventure in itself, which is what happened while I was in Turkey. I ended up learning a ton about finding, bartering, and eventually buying your very own Turkish rug. The main difference between a rug and a carpet is the size: rugs being the smaller of the two. Turkish rugs (called “kilims”) are flat, tapestry-woven pieces found throughout the Balkans, and are easily identifiable by their signature geometric motifs. Kilims are flat (they have no pile), and are usually double-sided. The smaller ones were traditionally used as saddle blankets or prayer mats. Authentic Turkish kilims are hand-made by women in Anatolia, which is the Eastern or Asian area of the country. Because Turkish kilims are traditionally produced by the nomadic peoples of the Taurus Mountains, they were often made of goat wool, or blended with sheep wool. In the past fifty years this has now changed to cotton. The signature geometric patterns of Turkish rugs represent many of the flora and fauna found in the mountains familiar to village life, such as tree leaves, running water, wolves, and the “evil eye”: an ever-present Turkish symbol. Hand-woven Turkish rugs are also inconsistent or imperfect in colour because the wool is hand-dyed, and thereby contains slight variations in shade. Before the appearance of chemical dyes coming into widespread use in the past fifty years, a variety of plants were used to create colour, such as indigo for blue, pistachio leaves for green, cherries or beets for red, and either eggplant skin or walnut for black. The first lesson to buying Turkish rugs is to get out of the big cities. Everything is more expensive in the city centres, and there are a lot more tourist traps and scams to beware of. Do not try to buy a Turkish rug in Istanbul's famous Grand Bazaar. If you know that you will be buying a Turkish kilim on your trip, check out some prices to get a feel for what you would pay at home. If your main focus is aesthetic, then you will probably be attracted to machine-made Turkish rugs with synthetic dyes. There is nothing wrong with this, they are beautiful, but should cost you much less than the hand-made ones, especially if they are new. In contrast, handmade kilims may not look as stunning, given the duller and inconsistent natural colours, but they are richer in historic and social origin. With these basics in mind, I hopped on a bus and left Istanbul, confident of my ability to distinguish between an authentic kilim, and one that was factory made. I ended up in the small town of Selcuk, which sits just outside of the famous ruins of Ephesus, and set out to test my skills with the local rug traders, allotting a whole day to do so. Lesson number two: If you haven't already learned the art of bartering along your travels, you absolutely must when buying a Turkish rug. After scoping out a few shops, I found one that I liked, which meant I got a good gut feeling about the shop vendor, and their wares and general feel of the store looked authentic. It also pays to compare their prices with other shops. As is customary, you’ll be offered a seat on an amazing, huge carpet, and given cai (tea). After some small talk, and then a discussion of what you’re looking for (with no mention of your price range), you’ll likely go the back room to gaze upon the many Turkish kilims. This will be the most overwhelming and challenging part. They all looked amazing, once you see something you like, this is a good moment to start talking price and trying to match up your preference with the cost. Always be friendly, and offer 30%—50% less than the asking price. This will start the back and forth bartering, and it’s key to increase your offer only minimally each time to get the best price. If you can't come to an agreement, it’s okay to walk out. Sometimes the shop owner will change their mind and call out after you, "OK, OK, no problem!" Once you have settled on a price, it’s very bad taste to try to change it, so you should then discuss shipping services, packaging, and the details of how to care for your piece. My rug dealer took care of all the shipping details, paid the shipping taxes, and then, once the dealings were done, we celebrated with a few cans of Efes, the domestic beer, which is coincidentally named after the Greco-Roman ruins of Ephesus, just around the corner. In the end, there is no precise or perfect price for a Turkish rug. As long as you feel satisfied with the price you paid, based on this knowledge, and had a good buying experience, it’s best to leave it at that. You will always find cheaper and more expensive rugs along the way, so be happy with the one you have, and rest assured that whether it’s hanging on your wall or cushioning your feet, it will be a treasured possession that will bring your trip back to life once you come home. Tue, 15 Mar 2011 03:53:22 +0000 http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/buying-turkish-rugs http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/buying-turkish-rugs Istanbul is a global hotbed for music. Known as the meeting point (and melting pot) of the Eastern and Western worlds, this title holds true for its auditory landscape as well. With an approximate 14 million people calling it home, Istanbul is an ancient city, home to countless different cultural and musical manifestations. You can get lost in Istanbul's music secene by simply following your ears. Immersed in sounds as old as the obelisks and as contemporary as the art galleries that line the Bosphorous Istanbul's music scene is a true melting pot. I flew to Istanbul specifically for the soundscapes, and so ended up in the Beyoglu district, known to be the most artistically dynamic area of the city. Also one of the oldest areas of Istanbul, Beyoglu lives up to its reputation, and is a musical paradise. On most evenings, just before dusk, fill your pockets with Lira coins and hit the grand boulevard called Istiklal Caddesi, which ends at the famous Taksim Square. On one main street, you can spend the whole night huddled with a warm crowd, completely enchanted by a Baltic melody on the clarinet, a woman playing violin, and an old man on Baglama (Turkish lute/guitar); all while a little boy taps away alongside on the Tef (tambourine). The sheer experience of intimacy that these street encounters offer is worth forgoing the bars for at least one night (and generously tossing the cover charge into a hat). There are, however, tons of great live music shows in Beyoglu, and the best venues are the Ghetto and Babylon night clubs. Drinks are pricey, so grab a pint of Efes (Turkey's national brew) for 5 Lira at one of the dozens of bars lining the narrow alleyways to the club. Admission is pretty standard, about 20 Lira, or $16 CAD. Here you can find the best contemporary music Istanbul has to offer, with genres ranging from rockabilly to rhythm and blues. You can also find internationally touring bands, or, my personal favourite, innovative Turkish musicians playing traditional tunes with modern melodic twists. One night I happened upon the impressive “Kolektif Istanbul” at Babylon nightclub, and danced off the soles of my shoes to jazz-infused classic Kurdish tunes. If you want to stick with Turkish classics, there are also tons of meyhane (Turkish Taverns). Meyhane are usually small and cozy, and on weekends, you will find musicians playing fasil (a local form of gypsy music). I happened upon one along Istiklal, and I saw a terrific singer with a Tef, accompanied by two guitarists, one of whom was keeping an accompanying beat on the body of his guitar. Drinks can be expensive, but worth the experience as long as you don't let them serve you “free nuts”. They aren't! Also, if you eat there, make sure to tip the musicians if they come over to play at your table. Tue, 15 Feb 2011 18:56:07 +0000 http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/istanbul-music http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/istanbul-music The Lycian coast runs along the southern coast of Turkey from modern-day Fethiye to Antalya. Lined by the Taurus Mountain range and facing the azure waters of the Mediterranean, this area of Turkey is speckled with both famous Lycian tombs and hidden monuments, remnants of a civilization that were once a confederation of independent city-states. Nestled between two fingers of the Taurus Mountains that reach down to touch the sandy coastline lies the Kabak Valley, a remote paradise just outside of Fethiye. While most tourists flock here for the surf and sun, it quickly becomes apparent that these mountains and shorelines were once home to the ancient Lycians. One need only walk a few kilometres of the Lycian way—a massive footpath that once connected the Lycian cities, and worn deep into the limestone hillside by centuries of use—to stumble across a hidden pillar tomb and appreciate the profound history of this special place. Here, the ancient city of Telmessos (400 BC) awaits. The Lycians had honeycombed the cliffs along their rugged coastline with ranks of magnificent tombs, one of the most famous being The Tomb of Amyntas (350 BC). Poised high on the hillside is the massive Ionic temple façade, carved high into the sheer cliffside. Dwarfed by these monumental and elaborate funeral chambers, glowing in the midday sun, the equally stunning view of the sea is behind you. Luckily, I was flirting with the start of the tourist season, which meant that the midday heat was still tolerable, and we had a few moments of quiet appreciation for this feat of architectural avarice before the din of “oohs,” “aaahhs” and beeping digital cameras brought me back to the present day. With a local tour guide, I left the Tomb of Amyntas and headed towards the lesser known, smaller, yet equally impressive Lycian rock tombs about 500 meters to the east. Here we were able to find an old olive grove in which to eat lunch. It’s interesting that the Lycians “buried” their dead so close to the city; and I imagined how comforting it might have been to look up at these tombs from the city or even the ocean, and feel the presence of a past leader or relative watching over. Yet in a way, these tombs almost defy death, as some of the more elaborate ones are decorated with relief carvings of the deceased, or major events of the period bringing to life this once vibrant society. The late afternoon sun finds the Lycian tombs glowing brilliantly in late-day light. While most of the other tourists had remained at Amyntas Tomb for the sunset, we had this stunning view all to ourselves. As I watched the sun turn the tombs from yellow, to gold, to coppery red, I thought of the porous limestone being battered by centuries of sun, wind and rain. Despite the fact that these relics of the past have lasted so long, even these seemingly eternal monuments will one day give way to time and find a resting place of their own. Wed, 08 Dec 2010 03:09:10 +0000 http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/lycian-tombs-turkey http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/lycian-tombs-turkey Istanbul's Hagia Sophia ("Church of Holy Wisdom") is considered to be an enduring, majestic symbol of the Byzantine Empire. At an astonishing 1,475 years old, the Hagia Sophia changed the face of architecture and merged religions. Originally an Orthodox Christian basilica, the building was constructed over five years by 10,000 workers on the orders of Emperor Justinian I in 532-7 AD. The Hagia Sophia was then the seat of the Patriarch of Constantinople for almost all of its first millennium. In 1453, Istanbul was conquered by the Ottoman Turks, and the Hagia Sophia was ordered to be converted into a mosque. It remained so until 1935, when the Turkish government declared the Hagia Sophia a museum. For over a thousand years it was the largest church in the world and is now one of the twenty biggest churches on the planet, even fifteen centuries after it was built. When you enter the Hagia Sophia, make sure to linger for a moment where prompted just inside the first set of huge wooden doors. By taking a few slow steps while looking up, you'll get the best possible sense of the roof's amazing interior unfolding before your eyes. First you will see a small dome with half a dozen windows, and then you will realize it is one of three domes enclosed by a larger dome. A few more steps and the much larger overall dome will come into breathtaking view, ornately decorated and encircled by windows filled with the dazzlingly bright Turkish sun. The sight is all the more amazing when you consider that this architectural feat was achieved almost a millennium and a half ago. Once inside, evidence of Hagia Sophia's mixed history, as both a Christian and Muslim place of worship, is visible all around. Richly decorated with mosaics, over its centuries as a Christian basilica, many of the Hagia Sophia's historic paintings were plastered over when it became a mosque. However, many of these historic paintings inside the church are again visible thanks to a modern restoration project that is still ongoing. You can also see most of the trappings of an Islamic mosque—the mihrab (wall inset pointing to Mecca), minbar (raised pulpit), and of course the four gigantic minarets or pillars outside—that were added in the centuries that followed the Hagia Sophia's conversion into a site of Muslim prayer. The centre of the largest dome is a point of controversy within the restoration project. It currently features Islamic calligraphy but was originally the site of a mosaic of Christ the Pantocrator ("Almighty"). The original painting is centuries older, but the Muslim art, now historic in itself, would have to be destroyed to uncover the first mosaic (if it is even still there). Ultimately, a visit to the Hagia Sophia is about more than just historic architecture; it is about the rare sight of two of the world's biggest belief systems coming together under one roof. Mon, 09 Nov 2009 20:33:10 +0000 http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/hagia-sophia http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/hagia-sophia The Whirling Dervishes Festival is one of the world's most intriguing sights, a mesmerizing spectacle of twirling delight. Become entranced at the origins of the Whirling Dervishes in Konya, Turkey, home to Mevlana Jelaleddin Rumi, a revered 13th-century scholar. Rumi preached of love, tolerance, and forgiveness, and as a way of connecting with God would whirl in the city streets in joy. Every December on the anniversary of Rumi’s death known as Seb-i Aruz, thousands of pilgrims flood Konya to witness the ritualized whirling at his Mausoleum. The ceremony known as Sema, takes place in the evening through an intricate tradition of mystical dances. It is divided into seven parts and includes four distinct musical movements, or selams. The eerie sounds floating from the reed flute provide an almost haunting musical accompaniment. Though not whirling yourself, simply watching the unrelenting dervishes detaches you from yourself and the physical world, precisely the purpose of the ritual. Although some significance may be lost on many who get a chance to take in this experience, the mesmerizing music, nimble feet in perfect step, and reverent expressions promise to evoke a great new sense of appreciation. Fri, 10 Oct 2008 16:12:14 +0000 http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/whirling-dervish http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/whirling-dervish Cappadocia known as the land of Fairy Chimneys, is like an open crack in time that takes you back to a place where civilizations lived in labyrinths and caves formed out of ancient volcanic stone. The town of Göreme is most closely associated to these smoothed out spherical structures and sanctuaries. It is estimated that the eruptions that produced this soft stone occurred some 3 million to 9 million years ago. Göreme Open-Air Museum is an exquisite experience as it boasts some the best examples of painted cave-churches, decorated in some of the most intriguing and elaborate interiors created by Medieval orthodox Christina monks in 1100(AD). Fri, 25 Jul 2008 03:50:50 +0000 http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/cappadocia http://www.thecircumference.org/experiences/cappadocia